Repairing a "Dry" Tubeless Tire

If you're using a true UST tubeless tire on a UST rim, you may not require sealant. If you're running a "dry" tubeless system, you can use different techniques (such as superglue) to patch a puncture. If you're using sealant in your tire, go to our "fixing tubeless tires with sealant" page.

You may be asking yourself, "What kind of moron rides tubeless without sealant?" Well, very few riders do. It's usually a cross-country racer who wants to eliminate as much weight as possible from the wheels. They're taking a chance that they won't find a shard of glass for the 90 minutes they're on the trail.

Sidewall rip -- probably the end of the tire.
Sidewall rip -- probably the end of the tire.
A large defect, such as this one, should not be repaired. Toss the tire and buy a new one. If a cut is more than 1/4 inch, it's unlikely that the repair will hold.

Note the "stress marks" on the sidewall of this tire. Flexing of the sidewall is separating the cords from the rubber. (This tire was primed to blow, because it's a light-weight non-tubeless tire, run with low pressure.) Sealant won't protect you against this type of tire failure.

Finding the leak.
Finding the leak.
Mark the spot of the puncture. You may not be able to find it once the tire is off the rim. And unlike a tube, you can't just dunk it in the sink. Instead, brush the tire with soapy water and look where the bubbles form. MARK THE SPOT.

Let all the air out of the tire and remove it from the rim.

Pinch the tire to expose the inside of the cut or puncture.

Using superglue to seal a puncture.
Using superglue to seal a puncture.
While maintaining the pinch that forces the puncture open, put a drop of superglue into the puncture, making sure it penetrates to the inside of the tire.
Let the edges come back together then leave it alone for a while.
Let the edges come back together then leave it alone for a while.
Now release the pinch and push the puncture closed. Wait 10 to 15 minutes to be certain the glue has hardened before you handle the tire further.
Preparing the inside of the tire for a patch.
Preparing the inside of the tire for a patch.
For larger punctures, and for all cuts, make a permanent repair as soon as possible. Remove the tire from the rim. (You don't need to take it all the way off, you can simply "break" one side away from the rim so the inside of the puncture is exposed.)

Clean the area of the puncture. I recommend against sanding, because you may expose the tire's cords, making the repair less secure.

Apply a thin layer of patch glue.

Applying a patch.
Applying a patch.
When the glue is dry (tacky, but not stringy, and firmly holding in place on the tire), apply a patch and press it firmly into place.
Preparing to re-seat the tire.
Preparing to re-seat the tire.
Reseat the tire. Brush a layer of soapy water around the bead of the tire where it will contact the rim. (Or for a more leak-proof seal, brush a thin layer of tire sealant around the bead.)
Making sure the bead of the tire is close to the rim.
Making sure the bead of the tire is close to the rim.
Force the bead out against the side of the rim. Using both hands, push your thumbs down in the center of the tire, while your fingers drag the sidewall of the tire outward. When it looks like the bead is sitting on the rim liner all the way around, you're ready to inflate.
Using a CO2 inflator.
Using a CO2 inflator.
Inflate the tire with compressed air or a CO2 inflator.

If the tire has been on your bike for a while, you may be able to seal the bead again with a good floor pump.